They fill 'em up first with air generated by simple fans, hook on the basket (on its side), and fire up the propane burners to shoot heated air into the envelope. (You remember Archimedes' Principle from high-school physics, right?) The balloon stands up and we're ready to go--or at least those of us who don't have a pathological fear of heights and do have a willingness to spend $195 to be terrified for two hours are ready to go.
The sights and the sounds are indescribable. It took me about four seconds to lose control, jump the fence, duck a few officials, and start taking pictures.
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